MAY 30th, 1798. After the departure of our three friends, as related in the preceding chapter, we bore up and stood to the westward along the coast, going off before the wind with all sail set. At 6 P. M. the north-west point of Nuggoheeva bore E. by N. about five leagues distant; the Island of Fettooeeva then bearing N. W. by W. six leagues distant. It was now but five or six days since we had first obtained sight of the Washington group of islands, during which, a harbor had been searched for, and found, water for a long passage had been filled, and an abundant stock of excellent refreshments laid in, of which the present appearance of our decks gave ample testimony ; so that the time spent at these most beautiful islands, cannot in anywise be said to have been foolishly squandered.

Among our crew there were some mechanics, all, with one exception, first-rate workmen ; assisted by the ingenuity and perseverance of these men, we had run a hand-rail, with a straightened sheer fore and aft the ship, about a man's height from the deck, the space between it and the main rail being filled up with diamond mesh net, faced with canvas. This, the better to agree with the bulwarks, was painted in a like manner ; so that when our boarding netting was down, and stowed in form on this rail, it had the exact appear-

ance, at a trifling distance, of hammocks laid up in the netting. Our carpenter's mate having served at the turning business, also contrived to furnish himself a lathe and set of turning tools ; with these he had made some quakers (wooden, or false guns), which, duly provided by the carpenter and armorer with carriages, vents, tompions, aprons, breechings, all in complete style, and being well painted, were such good imitations of the iron guns, as to require a close inspection to detect the deception. This may be better conceived from the fact, that when sold with the ship on her return to New York, the purchaser, although he had been on board daily, while the cargo was being discharged, and had stood upon them very frequently, bought them all as so many iron guns, but when discovered to him, came with a complaint, asserting that he had been imposed upon : he looked, as we seamen say, "Like one struck all aback," when informed that the inventory merely stated, armed with carriage guns, without specifying the exact number.

So that by these means our little ship was as to her outward appearance, completely changed from a merchantman into a man-of-war. The individual excepted as above, although entirely ignorant of the business for which he shipped, and knowing nothing of even the easiest branches of his trade, as a cooper, was nevertheless a good-natured fellow, and being willing to learn, was at this time set to work to bear his part in the various duties on shipboard, at making buckets, kegs, cans, kids, &c., in which he shortly became quite an adept.

At 5 A. M. the lookout at the mast-head, gave no-

tice of his seeing land in the N. E. This, as we neared it, appeared to be two islands, one high and of considerable extent, and the other a low island. The first we named New York Island, and the second Nexsen Island, in compliment to my friend and owner Mr. Elias Nexsen. The number of smokes that could be seen arising in various parts of the land, we considered as indications that they were inhabited, but bearing N. E. by E. from us, at the distance of from four to six leagues, with the wind from the E. N. E. did not think proper, particularly as we were not in want of anything from them, to waste time in beating up to them. At noon, our latitude was 8° 13' south, longitude 141° 31' west; at which time the middle of New York Island bore E. by N. eight leagues distant.

June 7th. The trade wind, with which we have been favored for the last few days, has blown a moderate breeze during the same, var)^ing from the E. to the N. N. E. with occasionally, heavy showers of rain. Boobies, man-of-war hawks, small white gulls, tern, or egg-birds, in great numbers, always in company, together with many flying-fish, of a larger size than ordinary; these were a favorite fish with us, and came very opportunely just now, by adding to the variety of our dishes. At 4 A. M. crossed the equator for the second time, being in longitude 154° 43' west.

June nth. Had the trade wind light from the E. S. E. with passing clouds; at intervals light showers of rain. At 3 A. M. soon after one of these showers, the seamen at the masthead on the lookout, gave the cry of "Land ho !" and in reply to the demand of the officer, then in charge, of "Where away.?" replied, "Di-

156 fanning's voyages

rect ahead, and close aboard;" the ship under full sail, with steering sails set below and aloft, was at this time going before the wind. The orders for the officers having charge of the deck, while sailing across this extensive ocean, were, in case land, or any dangers should be discovered during the night time, for them not to leave the deck to report the same to myself, but to give their immediate attention to the helm and the sails, have all hands called, while at the same time by stamping on the deck, over my head, I should be awaked. In the present instance, these directions had been promptly complied with, by the officer then in charge, so that in a few seconds I reached the deck, just at the moment that the lookout again called out, "Breakers close aboard;" the helm was then a lee, at port, and the ship coming fast to the wind on her starboard tacks, the studding sails were coming in, and yards bracing up, when stepping to the larboard rail, the land was seen stretching along in a direction seemingly about north and south, with the surf in the western board, as a rain shower passed over, and its clearing up enabled us to see it, appearing to be one continued sheet of white foam along the horizon, breaking high, with a tremendous noise, on the coral reef that bound the coast, and about one mile distant from the ship, as seen from the deck. After trimming every sail upon the wind, the ship looked about two points off the land, moving to the north-east at the rate of two and a half miles per hour, a heavy swell or sea from the eastward heaving her to the leeward, as she ranged along the land.

After an hour passed in great anxiety, a point or

cape was discovered off the fore-beam, while as the day began to dawn upon us, it was observed that we had fallen in with the land, about four miles to the south of the north-east Cape,* from which we were now gaining an offing to the north, and whence the land tended away to the westward. The ship had not gained over two miles to the northward of this cape, when it became suddenly calm, and by 8 A. M. the leeward swell or sea had hove her much more than a mile along the coast to the westward of this cape.

In this instance, we narrowly escaped shipwreck, as on sounding with the boat, for the purpose of ascertaining if such would probably have been the case, we were led to infer as much from our not being able, with fifty fathoms of line, to obtain bottom at a cable's length from the coral reef which binds the shore; so that had the calm happened only two hours sooner, it would unquestionably have taken place. At lo A. M. a sea breeze from the north-east sprang up, whereupon we bore away, and sailed along the northern coast to the westward : this island appeared to be one of some extent, and the group to consist of three, all within sight at the same time, and laying in such position to each other, as in some measure to form a triangle. The north and south islands were each about nine miles in length ; the other, the eastermost one, stretching to the northward and southward, and adjacent to

*Which we named Cape Brintnall (after our meritorious first officer, now Captain Brintnall, a gentleman of much nautical information, residing in the city of New Haven, and who, subsequently to this, has been in command of a ship for many voyages, in the business of seal fishery and commercial trade to the Pacifies and Canton, and while thus engaged, has paid for duties on China goods, many thousand dollars, the result of his great industry and perseverance, into the United States treasury).

158 tanning's voyages

the eastern ends of the two first mentioned, was about six miles in length, the whole three forming a most spacious bay, with good anchorage and good harbors. At noon, being off the north-west port, we hauled in under easy sail, over a bank which lays off the western end of the islands, where a ship, abreast of a passage into the bay, may anchor under their lee.

On gaining this position we hove to, hoisted out the boat, manned her, and pulled up through the passage. The landing we found perfectly smooth, and effected by resting the bows of the boat on a small sandy beach, at the starboard hand, as we passed into the bay. On the south island, and near by a grove of cocoa-nut trees, whose fruit then lay strewed around, covering the ground from one to three feet deep, and seemed to have ripened and thus fallen for many years past, our boat's crew, having formed themselves in a line from these to the boat, very quickly loaded her from the upper course of those nuts which had fallen last, by passing them briskly from one to another; meanwhile, I employed myself in taking a kind of fish, much like the striped bass. Of these there were great quantities continually crowding against the boat, so that it was an easy matter to spear and take them, without letting the shaft of the grains go out of the hand. After getting upwards of fifty, weighing from five to twelve pounds each, I desisted, supposing that this number would be full as many as we could consume on board ship before they should spoil: when cooked, they were found to be ver)^ finely flavored, and good eating. The sharks here are very numerous, and while the boat was on her passage into the bay, before

she entered the pass, they became so exceedingly ravenous around her, and so voracious withal, as frequently to dart at, and seize upon her rudder and the oars, leaving thereon many marks of their sharp teeth and powerful jaws; but so soon as she left the pass and entered within the bay, they deserted her, their stations being instantly occupied by multitudes of fish, less rapacious, yet infinitely more valuable. When the boat was loaded, accompanied by an officer, the steward going along, we took a stroll into the interior for a few minutes, among the upland grass and groves of various kinds of trees, without being able to discover any of the valuable bread-fruit tree. At the barren spots, the birds, boobies, knoddies, and the like, were quietly setting on their nests, so fearless and gentle, as to be easily taken by the hand ; yet in self defense, sometimes pecking sufficiently hard to draw blood. Amongst the birds, was one species about the size of our robin; with a breast of scarlet colored feathers, the under portion of the body being finished off with bright red, the neck of a golden color, back a lively green, with a yellow beak, except the very points, which were of a light dun color, the wings and tail being both of a jet black, and the last tipped off with white : it was a most beautiful and lovely bird, with its brilliant and richly variegated plumage. We were much chagrined, while observing these, to see a manof-war hawk flying by with one in his mouth, apparently having just caught it. At 6 P. M. returned to the ship, with the result of our afternoon's operations. There were no signs nor vestige of habitation discovered by us during our perambulations, from which

i6o tanning's voyages

we could infer that mortal ever had placed his foot upon these shores, previous to the date of our arrival ; still Captain Donald Mackay, in a vessel under the agency of the author, a few years after their discover}% being at anchor some weeks at Fanning's Island, while procuring a cargo of beach la mer, turtle shell, &c. for the China market, reported on his return home, that during this stay he frequently walked into the interior, and in one of these walks had come across some heaps of stones, which, to all appearance, from their order and regularity, were thus placed by the hands of men, although from the coat or crust of weather moss with which they are covered, it must have been at some ver}^ remote date. Being prompted by curiosity, and a desire for further information upon this subject, he caused one of these piles to be removed, and found it to contain, a foot or two under the surface of the ground, a stone case, filled with ashes, fragments of human bones, stone, shell, and bone tools, various ornaments, spear and arrow heads of bone and stone,

These islands are situated in latitude 3° 51' 30" north, longitude 159° 12' 30'' west, and as before stated, are three in number, exclusive of the islets. We gave them the name of Fanning's Islands, and by this they have been recorded, and remain on the charts in use. There is suiBcient depth of water through the passage for any merchant ship to pass in, and on the inner or bay side is smooth and convenient anchoring, which, together with the abundance of wood and water, the tropical fruits, best of fresh fish, and excellent turtle, here to be obtained, make this a very de-

NUGGOHEEVA TO CANTON l6l

sirable place, for the refitting of a ship, and refreshing a crew. The soil, generally speaking, as it appeared throughout the interior, was rich and luxuriant. The anchoring, on the bank off the western ends, and under the lee of the islands, is from twenty to thirty fathoms, over a sandy bottom: this, as the trade winds here prevail, will be found to be a smooth and easy roadstead ; in the ebb and flow of the tide, the current runs in and out of this bay.

Having recruited our stock of fire wood, as well as a goodly quantity of cocoa-nuts, at 7 P. M. we weighed anchor, and sailed from Fanning's Islands, then steered under a moderate trade breeze, to the N. W. by W. the weather fair and pleasant, attended by a smooth swell of the sea from the eastward.

A little before noon, June 12th, the seaman at the mast-head again called out, "Land ho!" adding, that the same was half a point off the lee-bow. At meridian, this newly discovered island bore west by north four leagues distance. This, was of a much greater elevation than Fanning's Island, and was, moreover, covered with plants or grass, presenting to our eyes a beautiful, green, and flourishing appearance. With the unanimous approbation of every individual on board, both officers and seamen, and with feelings of pride for our country, we named this, Washington Island, after President Washington, the father of his country.

Having but recently obtained a bounteous supply of refreshments, there was no necessity for our making a landing here, although the trees and green foliage, among which we plainly saw the tall cocoa-nut tree, presented a very strong inducement for us so to do, but

i62 tanning's voyages

passed it to the south, we then steering to the west. At 2 P. M. our ship was abreast of the island, having it between one and two miles distant, off the starboard beam. The waters now, were filled with a vast many fish of different kinds: of these we caught with the grains several excellent well-fed fellows, much resembling the king fish taken in the West India seas.

There can be no doubt but that at this island a vessel might obtain an abundant supply of excellent refreshments for her crew. As at Fanning's Islands, so here, we could perceive no tokens of its being at all inhabited. Washington Island is in latitude 4° 45' north, longitude 160° 8' west, and lies in a N. W. by W. direction from Fanning's Island, at a distance of some twenty-seven leagues. As we passed it, we discovered a coral or sand bank off its western side, extending a mile and a half from the shore, where it appeared a ship might come to anchor: from the south-west point, a coral reef, on which the sea breaks, puts out into the sea about a quarter of a mile. We left this beautiful island under a whole sail breeze, and at 6 P. M. it bore E. S. E. at a distance of about six leagues. From the many flocks of birds hovering over and around us at this time, particularly a small dark brown bird, with a white crown, which had not before been seen so far from the land, we were inclined to think that still more land existed in our vicinity ; yet were not able to discover any other, notwithstanding we had remarkably fine weather, and kept constantly a sharp lookout aloft for the purpose.

June 14th. Although somewhat foggy around the horizon, yet we had the weather quite pleasant, with a

brisk trade breeze, nor has there been any necessity, while saiHng over or across the western part of this extensive Pacific ocean, to lay the ship by a single night, through fear of running her upon any hidden danger, the weather having been remarkably fine all the time, with moderate trade winds, ever keeping a good lookout, and believing ourselves perfectly secure from this precaution; as usual attended by a great many of the feathered race, our constant companions. In this manner prosecuting our voyage, it seemed more like a sailing excursion, or party of pleasure, at least this portion of it, than what it in fact was.

The following occurrence, although bordering upon, and seemingly partaking of the miraculous, did nevertheless, actually take place. At nine o'clock in the evening, my customar)^ hour for retiring, I had as usual repaired to my berth, enjoying perfect good health, but between the hours of nine and ten found myself, without being sensible of any movement or exertion in getting there, on the upper steps of the companion-way. I suddenly awoke, and after exchanging a few words with the commanding officer, who was walking the deck, returned to my berth, thinking how strange it was, for I never before had walked in my sleep. Again I was occupying the same position to the great surprise of the officer (not more so than to myself), after having slept some twenty minutes or the like : here, upon observing the glittering stars overhead, and feeling the night air, I was preparing to return to the cabin, after answering in the afl^rmative his inquiry whether Captain Fanning was well ; why, or what it was, that had thus brought

164 tanning's voyages

me twice to the companion-way, I was quite unable to tell, but lest there should be any portion of vigilance unobserved by those then in charge, I inquired how far he was able to see around the ship ; he replied, that although a little hazy, he thought he could distinctly see land or danger a mile or two, adding, that the lookout was regularly relieved every half hour, in reply to my question if such was the case. There was something very singular in all this, and with a strange sensation upon my mind, after what had passed, I again returned to my berth. What was my astonishment on finding myself the third time in the same place ! yet with this addition : I had now, without being aware of it, put on my outer garments, and hat; it was then I conceived some danger was nigh at hand, and determined me upon laying the ship to for the night; she was at this time under full sail, going at the rate of five or six miles per hour; all her light sails were accordingly taken in, the topsails were single reefed, and the ship brought to forthwith on a wind: leaving directions with the officer in charge to tack every hour, and the same to be passed to the officer who should relieve him at twelve o'clock, so that by these means we might maintain our present station as near as possible until morning ; I added a request that he would call me at daylight, since himself would then be on the watch. He was surprised, and looking at me in astonishment, appeared half to hesitate whether to obey, in all probability supposing me to be out of my mind. I observed to him, however, that I was perfectly well, and possessed of my right senses, but that something, what it was I could not tell, required that

these precautionary measures should be studiously observed. After leaving these necessar}^ directions, a few minutes before eleven I once more retired, and remained undisturbed, enjoying a sound sleep, until called at daylight by the officer. He reported the weather then to be, as it had been during the night, much the same as the evening previous, with a fine trade wind from E. N. E. Giving him directions to keep the ship off her course and make all sail, after attending to some little duties, I followed to the deck just as the topmost rays of the sun came peering above a clear eastern horizon.

The officers and watch were busily engaged in the washing of decks, and attending to those various duties which claim attention at this portion of the twenty-four hours. All was activity and bustle, except with the helmsman : even the man on the lookout was for a moment called from his especial charge, and was then engaged in reeving and sending down on deck the steering sail haulyards. This induced me to walk, after taking a few turns back and forth on the weather side of the quarter-deck, over to the lee quarter, not expecting, however, to make any discovery, but solely to take a look ahead; in a moment the whole truth flashed before my eyes, as I caught sight of breakers, mast high, directly ahead, and towards which our ship was fast sailing.

Instantly the helm was put a lee, the yards all braced up, and sails trimmed by the wind, as the man aloft, in a stentorian voice, called out, "Breakers ! breakers ahead!" This was a sufficient response to the inquiring look of the officer, as perceiving the

i66 tanning's voyages

manoeuvre, without being aware of the cause, he had gazed upon me to find if or no I was crazed ; now, however, casting a look at the foaming breakers, his face, from a flush of red, had assumed a death-like paleness. Still no man spake: all was silence, except the needed orders as promptly executed, every man moved, and ever}' operation was performed in the manner, and with the precision that necessarily attends the conduct of an orderly and correct crew.

The ship was now sailing on the wind, and the roaring of the herculean breakers under her lee, at a short mile's distance, was distinctly heard, as the officer to whom the events of the past night were familiar, came aft to me, and with the voice and look of a man deeply impressed with some solemn convictions, said, "Surely, Sir, Providence has a care over us, and has kindly directed us again in the road of safety. I cannot speak my feelings, for it seems to me, after what has passed during the night and now also appears before my eyes, as if I had just awaked in another world." "Why, Sir," continued he, "half an hour's farther run from where we lay by in the night, would have cast us on that fatal spot, where we must all certainly have been lost. If we have, because of the morning haze around the horizon, got so near this appalling danger in broad daylight, what. Sir, but the hand of Providence, has kept us clear of it through the night." With him I perfectly agreed, and answered, that we should now be truly thankful to that Heavenly and protecting Being. But urgent and imperative calls for attention to our perilous situation, forbade at present any farther remarks ; the officer forthwith took the glass, and went

aloft for the purpose of ascertaining whether the ship was nearest to the north or south end of the reef, as also whether we were likely to weather and clear it on this tack.

I freely confess, that this premonition, so unusual, and the transactions therewith connected, are deeply impressed upon my mind, as an evidence of the Divine superintendence, and there, ever will remain so firmly imprinted, — how could they otherwise be? — as never to be erased. All hands, by this time made acquainted with the discover}^, and the danger thev had so narrowly escaped, were gathered on deck ; gazing upon the breakers with serious yet thoughtful countenances. We were so fortunate as to weather the breakers on our stretch to the north, and had a fair view and overlook of them from aloft. It was a coral reef or shoal, in the form of a crescent, about six leagues in extent from north to south; under its lee, and within the compass of the crescent, there appeared to be white and shoal water. We did not discover a foot of ground, rock, or sand, above water, where a boat might have been hauled up ; of course had our ship run on it in the night, there can be no question but we should all have perished.

Bearing away again on our course around its northern side, I went aloft, and with the aid of the glass could plainly see the land over it, far in the south ; yet regretting very much that we were not able to spare time to make a lengthy visit, the better to ascertain its extent and productions ; but this we could not, in justice to all interested, undertake. The shoal is sit-

1 68 tanning's voyages

uated in latitude 6° 15' north, and longitude 162° 18'

Captain D, Mackay, formerly spoken of, in command of the schooner Brothers, under the agency of the author, visited this land, which has received the name of Palmyra's Island, a few years after our discovery of it, while prosecuting his voyage in search of beach la mer, turtle shell, &c., for the Canton market, and has given the following particulars thereof. "Palmyra's Island lies in latitude 5° 49' north, longitude 162° 23' west, is about three leagues in extent, and has two lagoons on it, in the westermost of which, there is twenty fathoms of water over a coral and sandy bottom : the approach to the western part of the island is rendered dangerous on account of the coral rocks, just below the surface of the water, which extend out from the shore to the distance of three leagues ; but on the northwest side there is anchorage three-quarters of a mile from the reef, in eighteen fathoms."

It was thought after this escape, considering also the valuable cargo our ship had on board, to be too hazardous to continue any farther in a route so entirely new and untraversed. We therefore hauled the ship up to the northward, and soon after getting into the usual track of the Spanish Manilla ships, steered a course for the Island of Tinian; consequently in a path so often sailed over, we were not in any probability likely to make any farther discoveries while on this passage.

June 1 6th. Had a strong gale or fresh trade from the north-east, accompanied at intervals with squalls. This day we made use of the last of our stock of plan-

tains and bananas, laid in at Nuggoheeva; had yet, however, so good a store of cocoa-nuts, yams, and potatoes remaining, that every man received one each per day. Latitude at noon, 9° 35' north, longitude 167° 14' west. Among the other birds around the ship this day, we saw a Port Egmont or Cape Hen, Our route, from about five degrees to the south of the equator to our present situation, must be excellent sperm whale ground, for scarcely a day has passed, but we had sight of those valuable fish, oft-times in very great shoals, more particularly about the equator, and in the vicinity of Fanning's Island and the Washington group.

June 29th. Had pleasant weather, attended with a light trade wind: the ship was this morning surrounded with the man-of-war hawks, boobies, tropics, and a variety of small birds, among which was a species much like a small white gull ; from this we were induced to believe that we had passed Gasper's Island sometime during the latter part of the past night. Latitude, at noon, 14° 48' north, longitude 192° 23' west. This day tried and found the current to set N. by E. at the rate of half a mile per hour : for the several days past it has been northerly.

July 4th. We had a light trade breeze, with delightful weather, all of which was very fortunate for us, as by this means we were, in some small degree at least, and to the best of our capacities, keen appetites, and plenty of edibles considered, enabled to add to the rejoicings at home our mite, in the good old fashioned way of enjoying a holiday. Butchered our last Nuggoheeva hog, and with a full allowance of fresh pork,

yams, sweet potatoes, cocoa-nuts, plum pudding, and the like savory dishes, managed matters to have a pretty jovial time of it, topping all off with a moderate glass to prevent our choking. "Hail Columbia ' happy land," concluding the feast, and bringing therewith very forcibly to our minds, the thoughts of "Home, sweet home !" In the evening, a noddy lit on the yawl boat in the tackles at the ship's stern, and suffered itself to be taken, apparently nothing loth to assist in celebrating this our national anniversary of the Declaration of Independence. After suitably feeding, we allowed him to have his liberty again.

On the fourteenth, had a strong trade wind from E. by S. Had had during the night, squalls of rain; at sunrise, however, it cleared up, and gave us our former fair weather. At lo A. M. the seaman at the mast-head on the lookout, gave the welcome cry of "Land ho!" bearing W. by N. distant about seven leagues. This proved to be the Island of Tinian. At meridian, the south point of Tinian bore W. by N. half N. three leagues distant; made preparation then, by bending the cables, to bring the ship to an anchor. At 2 P. M. we were abreast of the south point, and began to open the bay at the southwest part of the island, where, laying at the inner side of the reef, near to the shore, a wreck was brought to our view ; upon which discovery, we set the American colors. An hour after, brought the ship to anchor in seventeen fathoms of water, over a bottom of coral rock and sand; the south point of the island then bearing S. by E. and the north-west point N. W. half N. After having the ship's sails furled, a boat was hoisted out, manned and o j

armed, and proceeded for the shore, where several men could be seen near the wreck, which, as we drew towards it, proved to be that of a ship of between three and four hundred tons, bilged, and laying over on her side. While passing through the passage in the reef by the wreck, it had been noticed that many of the persons on the beach were Malays, and it was therefore thought to be at least the most prudent step for us to be on our guard, and make use of all proper caution in approaching them. As our boat came within a few yards of the shore, the men ceased rowing and lay on their oars, until it was ascertained who they were. On hailing the person who appeared to have command, motioned to his men to fall back, at the same time himself coming forward, and answering in English, that he was the commanding officer of the crew belonging to the wrecked vessel : he, advanced to meet us, as we landed from the boat, and after shaking hands, gave me to understand his name to be Swain, that he was an American, and was born in Nantucket, held the station of first officer on board the lost vessel, and, since the death of the captain, was of course in the chief command, soliciting my assistance in behalf of himself and shipwrecked companions; to this I could but reply, that as it was the bounden duty of every^ man to render all the assistance in his power, to his fellow-creatures in distress, he with his friends might rely upon receiving mine.

He then proceeded, in answer to my inquiries, how many persons there were in all of his company, to state, there were three females, and twenty-one males, viz., the captain's widow, her servant woman, and a

172 fanning's voyages

female infant, two years of age; three officers, six British seamen, nine Lascars, and eleven Malays; while as he thus finished his statement, giving us an invitation to visit their habitations. These we found pleasantly situated on a beautiful lawn, surrounded by, and having at suitable distances about the same, stately trees, the whole appearing to be a cool and most delightful residence. The first house we arrived at was that belonging to the captain's widow, to whom I was now introduced by Mr. Swain : she was a very lady-like woman, of an easy and graceful demeanor, about thirty years of age, at the moment somewhat unwell, in consequence of the shock she had experienced, from our vessel's coming so suddenly to view, and although getting gradually more composed, yet considerable anxiety still remained depicted upon her countenance. From Mr. Swain it appeared, that this lady was engaged upon some household matters in doors, while the servant woman, at the time busy in front of the house, was the first to notice the approach of our ship by the south head of the bay; it was this woman's exclaiming, "A ship ! A ship !" that brought the mistress to the door, who, on beholding a vessel so near, and under full sail towards them, swooned away, and fell to the floor, nor was she brought to herself again until we were on the point of anchoring ; not neglecting, while thus recovering, to offer up a thankful prayer to Heaven, for so bright a prospect of deliverance from her present situation, and a restoration once more to her countr}^ and friends. The lady herself observed, that the moment our flag was seen flying at the mizen, it at once told them the stranger be-

longed to a Christian country; this of itself being a sufficient guaranty that her commander would not refuse herself and child a passage to her friends. I assured her, that together with the infant and servant maid, she was very welcome to, and should have as comfortable accommodations as our little ship could possibly afford, while on the passage. With many expressions of thankfulness on her part, for thus answering her expectations, we were invited to take a cup of tea previous to returning to the vessel, which of course we did not decline, but accepted with pleasure; and then proceeded to the next house, which was the officer's lodge: nearly in a line with these, were three others, for the seamen, Lascars, and Malays, the whole forming an oblong square, and erected by means of piles driven into the ground, other pieces connecting these at the tops, having a sharp roof thatched with palm leaves, and the turf flooring kept neat and clean by means of mats, of which they had great plenty, made them very comfortable; the men appeared to be under entire subjection to their officers, and quite content.

Within a few feet of the most inland lodge, was a well of the aborigines, or ancient inhabitants of the island; this, walled up in a ver}^ neat manner with hewn stone, tapering from the top to the bottom, was fifteen feet diameter at the top, and five at the bottom, with a flight of thirty-six stone steps on its south side, descending to the water, which was very good. Near by this, piled up in an oblong heap, under cover of the ship's sails, was her valuable cargo of silks, teas, &c., and buried in an appropriate grove, on the side of

the lawn near to their habitations, were the remains of their captain.

The habitation of Mrs. McClannon (the captain's widow) , where we now repaired to fulfill our engagement, was found in ver}^' neat order: it was about twenty-four feet by twelve, the inner walls being hung round with blue nankeen, a screen of the white, separating the farther end of the room into a lodging apartment. We found the tea table already set, and most bountifully furnished with what was a very agreeable picnic for persons from a long voyage, viz., baked bread, fruit, broiled chickens, beef steaks, and China sweetmeats, to which was added an excellent cup of tea ; events during their residence on the island, and other agreeable conversation, soon bringing the hour for returning to the ship at hand.

From the following particulars, as given me, at my request, by Mr. Swain, it appeared, that their ship was an English vessel, the annual supply ship from the Honorable British East India Company at Canton, for the British settlement at Sidney in New South Wales, with a full cargo on board, consisting of teas, silks, nankeens, China ware, sugar, rice, sam shu (a Chinese liquor), ginger, candy, and spices. They had, on leaving Macao, crossed the China Sea, and passed Formosa, when on gaining the longitude of Japan, were met by severe storms, so straining to the ship as caused her to leak badly. When built, this ship had been iron fastened, then sheathed with inch boards, put on with iron nails, her bottom coppered over this sheathing ; this, at the time they encountered the gales and storms spoken of, was worn thin, and was con-

tinually breaking and pealing off, while the iron nails by which the board sheathing was fastened, were eaten off by the copper, so that the sheathing would start and come from the ship's bottom, thus leaving the main plank exposed; the oakum had also, from long standing, become defected, and from the ship's motion, washed out of the seams, so that the leaks rapidly increased; to remedy this unfortunate state of things, their captain had judged it most prudent to bear away for this island, supposing that by laying her on the beach within the reef, she might be repaired.

Arrived at this island, they became fully satisfied, after a survey and inspection, that it was utterly impossible for them to prosecute their voyage any farther, until the seams were recalked, as then she was only kept from sinking by continual pumping. To accomplish their determination of warping the ship through, and within the reef, then to take out her cargo previous to hauling her on the beach, to proceed with the needed repairs, they had just commenced, as a gale arose, by which the ship was cast on the reef where she now lay, and bilged; not, however, until they had succeeded in getting out the major part of the cargo.

It was now upward of thirteen months since this ship had been cast away ; the crew, however, were so happy as to be thrown on one of the most fertile spots in the world ; they had tamed a milk cow, a few young cattle, a number of swine, and domestic fowls ; these all run wild. They had, moreover, a large supply of bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and many other excellent tropical fruits, besides which, their cargo, from its as-

1/6 FANNING's VOYAGES

sorted character, furnished them with suitable clothing, as well as some of the most to be wished for articles for the table ; so that they were only to be considered as suffering from the want of society. This had been the case with the lady more particularly, since the misfortune and its consequent fatigue had so pressed upon his mind, as to throw the captain into a violent fever, which in a very few days had caused his death.

A hunting party of Malays and Lascars was sent out by Mr. Swain, who had the goodness to offer us some fresh beef, to procure from among the wild herd a young heifer for this purpose. Noticing that they took only a couple of sharp hangers and knives, I inquired what they were going to do with these : in reply, Mr. Swain related their manner of taking these animals. The prairies where the numerous herds of wild cattle are in the habit of grazing, are covered with rich feed; around these are thick woods, impenetrable by reason of the underbrush, reed, vines, &c., excepting by such paths as the cattle had worn in passing to and from one prairie to another; these paths are so narrow as to oblige the cattle to go along in single file. Two men were usually posted in ambush in these narrow ways, some few feet apart, so that should the first one miss giving a deadly stroke, the second would complete the business: these being stationed, the others of the party make a circuit at a suitable distance, until they were arrived on the opposite side of the prairie in sight of the herd, when driving them off, the cattle always following the leader (a large bull), in Indian file, went by the two first mentioned men ;

they were allowed to pass until an animal to their liking was approaching, when the first man would strike at and endeavor to cut the ham strings ; if he is so fortunate as to cut both, the creature instantly falls, and is butchered on the spot, the meat being cut into pieces sufficient for a load for each person ; if not, the second seldom fails in accomplishing this end.

The party sent out this time, returned in less than two hours, with the several portions of a fine fat young animal, to be sent on board for the ship's company.

After returning to the ship, it became necessary to hold a consultation, to arrange sundry matters, and make some suitable preparations for the reception of our new and unfortunate friends, and their accommodations during the passage to Macao ; this we were enabled to do by dividing our after cabin, for the greater comfort of the females, into two parts, the other being reserved for the officers ; afterwards receiving six boxes and trunks of silk goods, which, together with their luggage, considering the size of our vessel and her full cargo, was all that could be taken on board, and these only for the benefit and by the desire of the widow and officers.

July 17th. The same pleasant weather which has favored us so long still continues, as well as the moderate trade wind. Having obtained wood, water, some refreshments, and an addition to our stock of provisions, of some rice, tea, sugar, &c. a young bullock, several hogs, and poultry, we were now well furnished for the passage to Macao.

It was upon Mr. Swain's proposition, decided to take the Lascars along, and leave the Malays on the

178 tanning's voyages

island, in consequence of a quarrel that had taken place while the boats were employed in transporting our passengers on board ship with the seamen and their luggage, between them, in which the Malays, intoxicated with the sam shu, had fallen upon the Lascars, and beat and wounded one of the latter seriously, by stabbing him with a cruse or dagger, so that he became faint and feeble from loss of blood, before we were able to get him on board and dress his wounds ; he, however, by good nursing and attendance gradually recovered, and by the time of our arrival at Macoa was nearly healed. This we the more readily acceded to, because that it was Mr. Swain's intention to charter a vessel, and return from Macao to this island for the cargo; the Malays, moreover, would have plenty of provisions, and even the comforts of life, so that there could be no likelihood of want overtaking them previous to his return, to which a farther consideration was the smallness of our ship, the quantity of water she could with other things carr}% being only a moderate allowance for the company with a fair passage, exclusive of the Malays.

Being all ready for sea, we weighed anchor and made sail, leaving the eleven Malays in possession of the island, as well as in charge of the wreck and cargo, until Mr. Swain's return, which was in the space of about five months, as I subsequently learned. Until we drew near the entrance of the China Sea, the weather continued much the same as for many days back, at intervals with heavy squalls of wind and rain, though generally with a brisk trade wind.

August 3d. Our lookout gave the welcome notice

of land in the W. S. W. about ten leagues off; this proved to be two of the Babuyane Islands, the wind at the time a light breeze from the E. S. E., weather very pleasant. During the night the wind veered around to the S. S. E. and at noon the next day we were about midway between the two northward and eastward islands, the southernmost bearing S. S. E., the northernmost N. N. E. A great deal of drift stuff was now about the ship, such as trees, bamboo, straw, and grass weed. Our observed latitude at this time was 19° 28' north, having made 23° 41' west longitude from Tinian. At i P. M. had sight of Cape Baxadore, on Luconia, bearing S. by E. twelve leagues distant, at the same time the westernmost island of the Babuyane group bore E. by S. half S.

These islands are twelve in number, and are all elevated or high land ; from the N. E. part of them a long reef of rocks puts off in the same direction; some of these are so prominent as at the distance of four leagues or thereabouts to appear very much like ships under sail. Among these islands we found strong irregular currents. The ship's course was now to cross the China Sea, for Macao.

August 5th. The winds were light and variable, the weather still pleasant, the sea as smooth as a mirror, here and there parcels of drift, trees, &c. with many dolphin and other fish about the ship. By the fifth day after we had made our passage across the China Sea, having then a moderate royal studding sail breeze from the eastward; this, at eight in the morning, brought us in sight of the grand Ladrone Island, then bearing N. half E. about ten leagues distant ; on sound-

l8o FANNING's VOYAGES

ing, we had thirty-eight fathoms water, soft muddy bottom. At two P. M. the wind dying away, we came to anchor in twenty fathoms; at day-break, weighed anchor again, the wind from the E. by N. and stood in shore, where we received a Chinese pilot. The wind soon after veering around ahead, brought us once more to anchor in eight fathoms muddy bottom, the grand Ladrone bearing east, the island, with the representation of a ship's mizen on it, then bearing W. by S. There were a number of Chinese fishing vessels around our ship just at this time ; many, as they sailed along, dragging extended between two of their boats a lengthy seine. One of these couple, during the middle watch of the night, was forced by the current athwart our hawse, so that the net or seine as extended, got foul of the cable, and in their anxiety to clear themselves without our knowledge, or giving us any alarm, they neglected to answer the hail of our Chinese pilot, whom the officer of the watch had requested to find out the object the two vessels had in view in taking that station ; the poor pilot, receiving no answer, was sadly frightened, and instantly declared them to be Ladrones (pirates), who were cutting away the cable, to tow the ship ashore. This report the officer thought proper to give me, and as some addition to the confusion, the order to call the men to quarters greatly alarmed the females, and brought them in the cabin; yet for their terror, there was some cause, as previous to the ship's sailing from Macao on their late unfortunate voyage, the British East India Company's packet, bound from Manilla to Macao, had been captured in a situation near to our own, by a party of

NUGGOHEEVA TO CANTON l8l

those Ladrones or pirates, and after a severely contested action, all on board, with the exception of two, were put to death : this affair coming fresh to the widow's mind, and hearing the above order, induced her to conceive a repetition of it, or at least a severe struggle was about to take place. When upon deck^ I found the pilot greatly concerned about his head, which he was certain the Ladrones would cut off, and not answering his call was sufficient to make him believe these, were pirates. By getting a spring to the cable, to veer it, and bring our batter)' to bear, we were ready to settle the matter ver)' shortly; but unwilling, through mistake, however sure the pilot might be, to injure any subject of the Chinese emperor, we hailed them again. Still no reply: the sentry^ was then ordered to discharge his piece over their boats, so that no one might be injured ; on thus doing, the spell was soon broken; for their women began screaming and crving in great style, giving us to know that they were fishermen, whose nets were entangled with the ship's cable, which they were endeavoring to clear. We found, indeed, that they were only poor fishermen, who had on board their several families. At day break, when the cable was hove in, their net was found so entangled and wound around, that we were obliged to cut it into several pieces before it was cleared ; this was a source of much grief to the two skippers (but it could not be avoided), for now they could not procure any chow chow (victuals) until the net was first taken on shore and mended. We explained to them the imprudence of their conduct, and the risk they had run in not answering, while at the same time, to assist

l82 FANNING's VOYAGES

the poor creatures, a cum shaw (gift) of rice, sugar, and some provisions was given them, and to their children a Spanish dollar each, as a fund to repair their damage: this produced in return many appeals to Chin Chin ing Josh (the name of their God) for blessings in our behalf, the women patting their little ones, and thanking us as long as their voices could be heard.